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 4/7/2012 10:29 AM
 
I am in the middle of replacing the exhaust amnifold gaskets. This project was not the nightmer everyone said it was, I had all the time in the world so I soaked the studs with PB Blaster for about a month. I was able to extract every bolt with out any heat. The problem I ran into Was on the number one exhaust port. There is a stud on the back side of the port that does not give you enough clearence to get a impact socket onto it. I have snapped every 9/16 socket in my set that had a shallow wall thin enough to fit on to it. I have bout 9/16 an 14mm boxed end wrenchs that haver part of the box end gone, I beleave these are for doing break lines an stuff. Either way they still didnt work out for me. I must be the only person in the world to ever have this problem cuz there is no information on the internet about it or the name of the special tool i need to get. Like I said though PB blaster for a month an i was able to remove every stud without any heat. The two that were snapped off I was able to hit with a hammer to jar the rust on the threads loose an put vise grips on an they came right out.
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 4/8/2012 8:11 PM
 

PB Blaster is good stuff. Sometimes after soaking in PB a shot of WD-40 will soak in a help it along. Sounds like you intend to replace the studs anyway. I suspect the corners of the nut are rounded by now. You may continue to soak the stud and get a good quality 6 point socket. Craftsman or Snap-On and you may have to tap it on over the nut. If that doesn't work, perhaps you can you get a nut splitter on there and cut the nut loose. At that point you should be able to slide the manifold off and get at the stud with vise grips. If you can't get a nut splitter on, you may be able to hacksaw the nut enough to back it off. Sometimes we have to be pretty crude to get the job done. The box wrenches that are not closed are tubing wrenches. Like you said, for brakelines, etc.

Bob K from PA


Bob and Gwen K from PA '99 Endeavor 37WDS4 2009 Ford Tarus or boat Four cats
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 4/16/2012 8:02 PM
 
I ended up getting this out with a 14 mm deep well snap-on socket. My manifolds were warped so bad I ended up double gasketing both sides of the engine. The number one exhaust port has a small leak in it still. The day Before I wrote this forum nothing was going my way an this bolt got the best of me. The next morning I wrote this forum an went outside to work on it an had the bolt out in ten minutes, an had the manifold on an off three more times that day. Sometimes patience an a clear mind can go a long way. Overall I had 3 people at 10 hrs a day for 5 days on this project. Tools needed- pb blaster, 9/16 deep well 9/16 shallow well, 14 mm deep an shallow( works well on studs that are worn from the heat) all half inch drive. Only use half inch drive for the removal. When assembling everything use a 3/8 drive. Some people recommend not using a half inch drive at all cuz it will break studs off. I pb blistered everything for over a month hitting it a few times a week an only broke one stud out of 16. My biggest tip is to put your whole tool box under your rig right off the start, saves a lot of trips out from underneath.
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 4/20/2012 7:13 PM
 

did you use new bolts and never seize when you put it back together? also were they to bad to have milled flat?


mike
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 5/11/2012 10:21 AM
 

I have tried PB Blaster and have found it almost worthless. What works wonders is Kroil from Kano industries. I have used it for years, and ran out a while back so I bought a can of PB. It didn't work like the Kroil would, what should have loosened in a couple of hours took a couple of days and several sprayings. You can only buy it on line (or at least thats the only place I have found it.) They have a Google special right now, found it when I placed the order yesturday.

No I don't work for them, but am a happy comsumer of their products.


Steve Zehr Miami Co. Kansas 2004 F350 Crew Cab 6.0 dsl dually, B&W Hitch 2009 Bighorn 3670RL
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 5/12/2012 2:16 AM
 

I second the motion re Kroil.

I also have used it for years, and it is the ONLY thing that will sometimes loosens frozen bolts and nuts.

Don't knOw how it works, but it indeed does!


Cheers and happy travels, Mike www.backroadtravelers.com
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 6/5/2012 12:54 PM
 

Sorry I have not replied to anyone. My account locked me out an I had to start a new one. I did use new bolts an did not anti seize them in. I did end up double gasketing both sides an am still not satisfied. The manifolds them self have relief cuts placed I between the exhaust ports to try an reduce warping due to the extreme heat from the big block. These still did not help much after 30 years, I am gonna end up replacing my manifolds with new headers. Was told sumitt racing had some just for this rv motor.

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 6/5/2012 12:58 PM
 

As I mentioned I knew this project had to been done so a month before hand I started spraying the pb blaster. This other stuff prolly works well, but I can say I dunno what hard feelings you guys have against it but pb blaster. Has worked well on anything I have ever used it on. Plus it's made right here in Cleveland Ohio.

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 6/5/2012 10:57 PM
 
 Modified By gismo  on 6/5/2012 9:59:07 PM
thanks for the update.

mike
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 8/9/2014 9:12 AM
 
Tbaker150450 wrote:
I ended up getting this out with a 14 mm deep well snap-on socket. My manifolds were warped so bad I ended up double gasketing both sides of the engine. The number one exhaust port has a small leak in it still. The day Before I wrote this forum nothing was going my way an this bolt got the best of me. The next morning I wrote this forum an went outside to work on it an had the bolt out in ten minutes, an had the manifold on an off three more times that day. Sometimes patience an a clear mind can go a long way. Overall I had 3 people at 10 hrs a day for 5 days on this project. Tools needed- pb blaster, 9/16 deep well 9/16 shallow well, 14 mm deep an shallow( works well on studs that are worn from the heat) all half inch drive. Only use half inch drive for the removal. When assembling everything use a 3/8 drive. Some people recommend not using a half inch drive at all cuz it will break studs off. I pb blistered everything for over a month hitting it a few times a week an only broke one stud out of 16. My biggest tip is to put your whole tool box under your rig right off the start, saves a lot of trips out from underneath.

The hole you have on the exhaust can be fixed with the following:

Thermosteel http://epoxyputty.com/products.php

It can with stand temperatures of 2400F

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